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Tony wrote: ↑Mon Feb 08, 2021 2:22 am If you had 2 clocks running in series they would display '1.048596'. Probably.

It made more sense as a reference back when I designed it.

So it is simply was test code to verify the communication between them?

When the clock does the "slot-machine mode" I notice that it stops at either 1047, 1048 or 1049 roughly evenly then holds that display for a few seconds before returning to the normal time display. What do these numbers mean?

... Try covering about 3/4 of the window with heatshrink for now. A software mod will probably be needed though in future kits. [SOLVED] As Tony suggested, the addition of the heat-shrink to reduce the sensitivity of IC4 fixed it. Some experimentation was need regarding how much to cover up, but re...

One of the cylinder clocks I built has a curious issue: the IR transmitter/receiver circuit for the menu system seems to "be too sensitive". It can trigger if sunlight flashes on it, I pass by, or even it would look like it happens spontaneously! I have tried turning it off, waiting a few ...

A beginner's advice: Practise assembly!! When everything is built and the end-caps finished and the perspex cylinder washed: doing a first assembly then is a disaster: the boards are a very tight fit and could so easily scratch the perspex cylinder. Yes: the cylinder is extremely sensitive to scratc...

Two of the cylinder clocks I built during the COVID-19 pandemic. Note the mods: more flexible & longer USB power lead, but more importantly the GNSS module mounted underneath that supplies time to the clock and to the USB data lines. If connected to my PC, when running ntpd, it could be a stratu...

XXXsnipXXX So I conclude that the maximum voltage to T1 is somehow lacking in the "dim" buttons. Yet how it is lacking I am baffled. Tony, could you please advise? A thought: I have read a tiny bit about transformer windings and the effect of the secondary being wound in the opposite dire...

[SOLVED]

jmmcg wrote:XXXsnipXXX
I tried shorting out the two blue leds under the tubes in question. This had no effect.

A replacement nixie display PCB kit was supplied and that fixed this problem.

XXXsnipXXX I have tried swapping T1, the diode and the PIC chip from either the working button or spares, successively, none had any effect on the "dim" nixie. Into the base of T1 I see a nice 5V square-wave at 111kHz for both "dim" and "bright" (i.e. that part of the ...