Lasermad.com

Suggestions for improvements, mistakes, hints here please.

So I dove into this head first. I am starting with the display PCBs. I'm not sure if it is my skills or the new soldering iron but it was easier then I thought it would be.

Tony, there is a small issue with your instructions that you could maybe fix. The pictures of where to solder the capacitors is the issue. You show in the picture with all the capacitors attached but the diode packs haven't been attached yet, the caps that are directly counter clockwise of the diodes are too far clockwise in the picture and this leaves no room for the diode packs.

Does this make sense?

Yes, I misplaced them in the first picture, I'll replace it when I boild the next batch.
It may be better to solder them on after the diode packs as it's easier to see how much space there is and exactly where they fit.

For anyone that is apprehensive about soldering what I have been calling grains of sand (capacitors) on the PCBs. It gets easier, and fast. My first two display PCBs took me over two hours. After eight it was down to 25 minutes each and with eight left it is less then ten minutes apiece (with searching for a grain of sand that popped out of my tweezers). Another hint: sweep your floor before you start a soldering session. I forgot once and now I lost a grain of sand.

I figure it will have taken me about six to seven hours to solder the display PCBs without the pins.

Instead of buying a magnifying light to inspect my work, I found a free iPad app called Mag. Light that works quite well when I put my iPad hanging over a stack of books. Just slide the PCB under and I have a giant view of it. If you don't have an iPad the magnifying light is probably the cheaper solution

Salt Maple wrote:For anyone that is apprehensive about soldering what I have been calling grains of sand (capacitors) on the PCBs. It gets easier, and fast. My first two display PCBs took me over two hours. After eight it was down to 25 minutes each and with eight left it is less then ten minutes apiece (with searching for a grain of sand that popped out of my tweezers). Another hint: sweep your floor before you start a soldering session. I forgot once and now I lost a grain of sand.

I figure it will have taken me about six to seven hours to solder the display PCBs without the pins.

Instead of buying a magnifying light to inspect my work, I found a free iPad app called Mag. Light that works quite well when I put my iPad hanging over a stack of books. Just slide the PCB under and I have a giant view of it. If you don't have an iPad the magnifying light is probably the cheaper solution

Great hint (Mag. Light), sounds like you're having fun
Have you been testing each display piece after construction with the main board?
Must be exciting, can't wait !!

I haven't tested one yet. I don't have a power supply (I haven't gotten up the courage to go through my box of tangled wires and wall warts) and I am looking for a good deal on a multimeter to buy.

I am having fun. It is easier and less tedious then I thought it would be. I am almost sad I will be done the display PCBs tonight. Then it's onto the board. I will wait to wind the coils until I find a power supply and multimeter.

Just get a "Fluke 87-V", they're awesome.

As for power supplies get a "Mean Well SP-100-12". Then you could use it as a benchtop power supply when you're not powering the chessboard.

One thing that is guaranteed to improve the ease of soldering - throw out that crap I sent you and go buy some multicore 60/40.

Kester 44 63/37 for PCB work. 60/40 for soldering wires together.

The_Ed wrote:Just get a "Fluke 87-V", they're awesome.

Agree, the Flukes are very nice bits of gear, I'm using a 187.